Ancient Capitals Galore

Skimming through the last few days spent in the ancient capital of Thanjavur (of Dravidian history ie pre Ayrian if that makes a difference, reader). Now it is a typically chaotic, cacophonic, dirty AND smelly Indian city. Walking down the streets is like taking your life in your hands - either there is crazy and I mean C R A Z Y traffic or badly broken pave stones placed over an endless network of sewers. As we know all too well, India is not for the faint-hearted.

Brihadishwara temple and fort complex made the street navigation worthwhile. Commissioned 56 years before the Battle of Hastings by Rajaraja I, (name translates as 'king of kings' so roll over all of those already mentioned monarchs in Rajasthan!), this guy was truly organised. He had the names and addresses of all his slaves - I mean courtiers - engraved into the temple walls. Modern India - there is a lesson in that! Anyway Rajaraja obviously ruled the roost very nicely thank you with his 400 dancers, (each given their own on-site house for 24/7 entertainment no doubt), tailors, astrologers, accountants, chefs, musicians, artisans, gurus etc. He sure must have thrown a mean party or two!

Frankly each temple we visit seems to get bigger, I can't say better as they are so different but this one is dedicated to Shiva and therefore very much part of a well-established pilgrim circuit. Inevitably we were roped into photo shoots with women and girls in red saris on a 6 day temple to temple marathon.

To describe the 'big temple' ie the inner sanctum.... it has no less than 13 storeys in the middle of a gigantic courtyard. How they got that heavy tawny sandstone carried over here is not known; strangely reminiscent of Egypt and Mexico... The outer gateways are smaller and topped by pyramidal towers with carved figures and fanged door guardians. I learnt that as the centuries went by, temples were built with smaller inner sancta but larger gateways as the idea of 'protecting something from sight' became more popular.

We also went to Saraswathi Mahal library, one of the oldest in Asia. Its collection includes rare palm leaf manuscripts which are mainly in Sanskrit, paintings by English artists (!) and graphic diagrams on Chinese torture. Hey, all makes sense... really.

The Great Escape

Not in my wildest dream could I have imagined what lay ahead.... Just 3 days ago we tried to cross the border from Kerala to Tamil Nadu. Rumour had it that there were intermittent mild troubles because of the ongoing dam issue but, upon arrival, the presence of Keralan police spelled otherwise. Whilst at the border it seemed worthwhile chatting to the Chief of Police anyway (a lovely man) who encouraged me to speak to the Tamil Nadu policeman just a few yards away. A not so lovely man, this guy said he would check with his commander in charge and left me waiting with the paparazzi. They were busy filming me so I asked them to stop and then we started chatting. "He iz bad man." one of them said in broken Ingleeesh. "Not safe, Ma'am." said another. Their warning was enough for me to cross back over the border to be promptly greeted by more pap - also more filming. No idea which/how many tv news stations might have featured me but the local Keralan press got a pic of Ros storming back to our autorickshaw in the inner cover of their daily paper. We have sure left our mark!

This was not, however, the only blockade. Where is the king of cool (aka Steve McQueen) when you need him?? You might have to re-read the next sentence.... Our 2nd epic attempt to leave Kerala was nearly thwarted by a cluster of... I kid you not.... 20+ rather large grey monkeys blocking our exit. Mr and Mrs monkey and their brood simply wouldn't budge - no sirey - they looked on nonchalantly as I tried stamping feet and making weird noises to galvanise them into 'appropriate' action. "Help!" I feebly shouted over to Ros. "Do something!" "What do you want me to do?" was the curt but discernibly scared retort. Finally we escaped by the skin of our teeth, praying these cheeky beasts wouldn't jump, scratch or bite. Cute they might look but best far off in the treetops.

So, what should've been a 3 hour cross border car journey became a 19 hour mission possible adventure the majority of which on a 'luxury' sleeper a/c coach. Whilst passengers are not allowed to open the curtains or switch on the reading lights to encourage 'rest' the coach operators have a select mix of either violent movies or twangy whiney music at full blast throughout. An ideal journey for a hyperactive insomniac! Still, at 3am I found myself negotiating a favourable autorickshaw rate over a cup of chai in order to get to our 'deluxe' hotel.... finally

Upon arrival (btw this is Tiruchirapalli, T Nadu) we were heartened to read about the said hotel's promised '24 hour check in and check out service' and 'we provide a warm welcome to our guests' but disheartened to see the snoring security guard. There was no waking him up from deep slumber so our new beds for the next 2 hours became the sticky leather sofas in the lobby with English blood-hungry mosquitoes. 2 hours later we were taken to our room - I should say 3 rooms until we got to one with non threadbare and clean(ish) sheets. Deluxe hotel .... see what I mean?!? This is India for you.

Needless to say we are taking things easy now and have only just visited Sri Ranganathaswamy Temple (14th Century). It encloses part of the Srirangam villages and covers over 60 hectares, making it one of the biggest temples in India. You have to go through no less than 7 extremely ornate gopurams (walled courtyards) to reach the inner sanctum that is dedicated to Vishnu. Many of the temples are for Hindus only but with over 70 courtyards to see and a lot of people watching that was fine by us.

Dinner now and I've just spotted Domino pizza .. forget gluten free and quality... it has really come to that!

21 Beds Later

No idea where we are now! This isn't a direct result of travel fever but our current stop-off is known simultaneously as Periyar, Kumily and Thekkady. There is a 'pedantic' difference between the three and it is right by the border with Tamil Nadu. Given the ongoing conflict with the infamous dam (see last blog), we are hoping to be safely deposited this side of the border tomorrow and safely collected the other.

Wildlife rules in this place (whatever it is really called) but plays by its own elusive rules. On our 3 hour forest trek we didn't see much - the occasional leech (a true delight), bisons' footprints, grey monkeys, beehives and honeycombs as well as a huge wasp nest. However from our homestay we were treated with the sight of 5 big black langur monkeys feasting on trees and threatening to clamber on to our balcony for more feasting (and pilfering). Also tonight the streets were ablaze with a plague of giant flying ants; they only last a few hours and come out about once a year so weren't we the privileged ones?!

Prior to here it was Munnar - tea plantation land which is surrounded by exquisite landscapes, lakes and waterfalls. Apparently it produces better tea than Darjeeling and Assam put together but the best of the batch is exported. Next time you fancy a cuppa check the small print of the box to see if Munnar features.

Like everywhere in India just a handful of people seem to rule the roost. The biggest tea plantation in Munnar is owned by a company called Tata who also manufacture cars amongst other large scale ventures. The plantation is run a bit like John Lewis Plc as 97% of employees are shareholders however its previous colonial owners gave out salaries in special currency which meant that people didn't abscond. A clever ruse which comes to light only at their museum (one of oldest in India).

Our first forest trek here was a bit more revealing and dangerously slippery. Highlights included sightings of the deepest leopard scratches you could imagine on trees and tiger footprints in the mud. As a hill station it sure was ccccold at night so we whiled away one evening at a Kalarippayattu show. Dating back to the 12th Century this is a forerunner of martial arts and extremely exacting. The levels of fitness and dexterity needed are extraordinary - it involves gymnastics, poles, huge swords, bare hands and daggers. I couldn't turn down the offer to have a trial down in their pit afterwards and exchanged a few rusty Tai Chi tips for some sword slaying techniques. Maybe I will come back home fighting fit after all!! A bit dirtier, a bit lighter and very much looking forward to a plate of my mum's cooking.

A Taste Of Keralan Paradise

Picture yourself swinging gently in a hammock perfectly positioned by an exclusive fresh water lake, surrounded by lush greenery - a forest on one side, exotic plants, and spice and herb garden on the other. All of this leading straight on to a beautifully landscaped garden with an 'infinity' swimming pool and the most delicious succulent fruit literally falls off the trees. The only noise is birdsong and a slight breeze. This is the authentic and unspoilt Keralan experience - worlds apart from the hustle and bustle of all those Indian cities.

Three days ago we had a true celeb's welcome here at the Dewalokam homestay; their 12 friendly members of staff were lined up to greet us with jasmine garlands, fresh coconut water, mystical type of incense and we were anointed with a beautiful smelling potions - it was highly embarrassing and heart-warming all at once.

Being able to eat everything without even the slightest of concern here in India is a godsend in itself but here we have two dedicated chefs producing some of the best Indian fayre ever. In a coconut shell I have been catapulted into food heaven. Only the tastiest organic food and veg are readily available from Dewalokam's on-site farm - think pineapples, jack fruits, papayas, lychees (4 versions), coconut groves (of course) guava, custard apples (over 3 varieties), vanilla pods, coffee beans (unbelievably good), cocoa beans, fresh geese eggs, homemade goats cheese, bananas (at least 5 varieties), cinnamon, nutmeg, lemon grass, camphor and some of the rarest herbs with essential medicinal properties.

Every day I watch the cooking demos and get to help out too (a hindrance more like). Today it was banana leaf with around 20 different samples of food and spices; this morning we had cashew milkshake (fresh milk from the resident cows of course). yesterday it was 3 varieties of banana for breakfast and a freshly grilled red snapper with tender veg , followed by vermicelli with fresh cinnamon. I cannot recommend this homestay enough, the founders are a highly educated couple who are exceptionally helpful and just want it to be non-profit so that they can plough back monies into further agricultural development by planting more endangered trees and herbs, boosting the local economy by creating jobs and giving visitors a glimpse of unspoilt and traditional Keralan life. Since marketing isn't their forte, I volunteered to help - they now want me to consider working with them! If you or any of your friends like the sound of this taste of paradise then just let me know - and their soon to be revamped website is: www.dewalokam.com

Not much time for reflection though - so much to do and see. There's the nearby waterfall, the local village, bird spotting, fruit bat spotting, water rafting (serene version), rubber-tapping and I even tried some angling (caught a log of wood as the fish skillfully removed the worm without getting harmed - was kind of pleased about that!). We were also guests of honour at the local school, not realising they wanted us to deliver part of their assembly to nearly 500 children. After booking in for Ayurvedic treatments at the world renowned hospital (and then chickening out - too much oil and pummelling for me) I was sorely tempted to get involved in the local town's demonstration against an imminent water bomb. Every day there are peaceful demonstrations by school children since Keralan scientists maintain that the dam constructed nearly 200 years ago in the neighbouring state of Tamil Nadu needs renovation otherwise there is a risk of it flooding over 30% of this state. They believe it is an impending agricultural and tourist disaster which, at worst, could kill as many as 3.5m people. According to scientists from Tamil Nadu it is not necessary and the main parliament in Delhi just isn't making a decision - needless to say the bottom line is always about saving 'big bucks'.

In the meantime literally school by school, hundreds of impeccably well-disciplined children are taking to the streets, waving placards and singing in unison against this possible catastrophe. When one primary school caught sight of us they started clapping and it was really tempting to join in the demo - we know that would have secured local press ... and then national press... and then broadcast media... and then who knows.... an Indian slammer!! Probably a lot safer watching all of this from the outside.

All Change

Can't believe it is already the last month of 2011! 'Happy December Birthdays' to both my parents born either end of the month. 'Happy Birthday' to Vivienne (long suffering school friend and bridesmaid in 97). Before Xena and Torin (niece and nephew) chide me 'Happy Birthday' to Siggy (their dog) who is now officially even older than me.

Back in Fort Cochin 'Pearl of the Arabian Sea' it is hot, hot, hot. Keralan climes are soaring high in the 80s and with at least 50% humidity we have changed all our travel plans, seeking refuge up in the hill stations from tomorrow. Ayurvedic massages, yoga, general pampering, short treks and... healthy food... are definitely on my menu to recoup from all this Indian jetsetting.

Thankfully we found time to go to a Kathakali which is typical of Kerala and dates back to the 17th century. Translating as 'story play,' it used to go on for up to 9 hours and even today only the creme de la creme can cut it. If you want to perform it'll take 6 years just to learn about applying make up - the main characters gave us an intricate demo and it is easy to understand why.... It takes 6 years to learn the deft dancing and stylised gesticulations - they use face, eye, leg and hand muscles you would never know existed. I am sure my niece, Cerys would have loved it!

Also obligatory is the backwater cruise on a rice boat through a network of canals to see village life and a trip to the oldest Jewish synagogue in Asia (16th century). Despite getting through 4 homestays (avoiding lizards, mice, centipedes and tropical dampness amongst other things) Kerala has been enjoyable, let's see what the next chapter holds.

No more curry!!

I mean it!! If ever there was an Oliver Twist 'in reverse' it would be me right now. My new mantra is 'take back the curry, sir and remove all traces of its stench!!' No offence meant here but lofty plans to go on a cookery course over here might just be shelved.

Anyways the last days in Rajasthan flew by and before my jaded memory fails entirely, here a few sightseeing highlights. We visited the Umaid Bhawan Palace in Jodphur which was built in the late 1920s with the 'main' purpose to create 1,000s of jobs during a period of drought and famine. It is believed that many of the workers' ancestors had been recruited to build the likes of Fatephur Sikri - tragically no change in life conditions for your average Mr Patel then.

The then king loved us 'Britishers' and had basically rocked up to a firm of London architects commissioning them to build this palace - a lucky (if not surreal) card or what for the recipient. The place smacks of ego... and with the garishly 'best'/'most expensive' of everything including stunning pieces of art deco which were obviously de rigueur at the time. Again no offence meant here but I am not a monarchist and India is meant to be a republic now ...

Next stop was the 15th Century Ranakpur Jain temple carved from milky marble. I have never seen anything quite like it in the flesh, a forest of nearly 2,000 pillars and, yes, they are of course all hand-carved differently.

Udaipur was the strategic last stop to prepare us for a calmer period here in Kerala (down south - check out the map in the first blog entry). Considerably cleaner than it's Rajasthani sister cities, there is less jarring music, tooting, hassle for business, no farting camels or decorated elephants in the street - ok, the occasional gormless holy cow block but you can't have it all. The city palace (how many has that totted up to now!?) is apparently the largest in the state and literally spews up balconies, towers and cupolas. It is quite impossible to take in every room which tries to out-do the other.

When we arrived in Kerala so did the unusually bad weather - still humid but raining. Fort Kochin is reasonably interesting and 14 beds later (!) we are staying put for a while. I say that but we have changed accommodation 3 times since arriving (long story). It is proving difficult to remember hotel room numbers and not get out of bed wall-side. Anyway backwater trips and the beach seem very appealing weather notwithstanding.

In the words of my father in law, you either love India or hate it. To be totally honest I have had moments of both in equal measure. It is truly a place I will never forget and no point in tempting fate by wondering what more lies in store. Guess you might have to carry on reading for the next instalment!

Still on the rampage

First and foremost 'HAPPY BIRTHDAY GREG' that is for my brother....

Talk about famous last words... being fed and watered in Pushkar spelt the end - this time not for me but for Ros although it felt it was me again! We will be suing Lonely Planet AND Rough Guide for recommending the Little Tibet restaurant that's for sure. Who needs colonic irrigation when you have India (ok, a tad more expensive). Once the hotel dr had come and gone bedrest was prescribed which kicked our itinerary out the window. Still I performed my Florence Nightingale duties and all was soon well.

As to the city itself, allegedly Brahma (a high priest) dropped a lotus flower on the earth which then became Pushkar. A Hindu pilgrims city it has one of the world's few Brahma temples which is strategically located around the sacred man-made lake which in turn has rows of ghats and 100s of milky blue temples.

Day one we bravely climbed 320 steps to the Savitri temple and were rewarded with a breathtaking panorama and then sunset. No forewarning as to how dangerous it would be though - jumping monkeys notwithstanding we fortunately live to tell that tale.

Today we got to the blue and cubist style city that is Jodphur with its amazing Mehrangarh Fort. Although the forts are just getting bigger and better they are blurring into one - we are trying to remember that this one has 7 gates, is mainly coloured deep terracotta, has a latticed palace complex, network of courtylards and, frankly, is quite overwhelming to understand. Imagine visiting 2 British Museums in an hour at 85 degrees - and it is winter out here.

Weirdly enough memories of our unforgettable cinema trip in Jaipur keep following us (numero uno Hindu cinema in India, think large pastel meringue style). Posters of the flic 'Rockstar' are everywhere, tv stations boom out the music and the protagonist is clearly soaking up royalties for his car ads too.

Udaipur is tomorrow and then it is the end of our adventures in the land of the kings - btw Rajasthan is the largest state in India. See you down south as we search for well deserved r&r.